Wave kinematics in a groin field - time domain analysis

The time histories of wave elevation and the two horizontal in line and transverse velocity components measured in a groin field were subjected to time domain analysis. The variation of the wave and velocity characteristics with respect to the time of measurement at a particular location and its variation at different locations within the groin field at a particular instant of time are presented and discussed. In addition, the validation of the linear theory in predicting the wave kinematics in the direction of the wave propagation from the measured wave elevations is examined on assumption that wave directional variability is small. -Authors